On Monday I left the hostel for the last time this trip with tears & hugs all round.

Annie arrived to take me back to their place in Orne, but as is usually the case with her we got off the beaten track well & truly. First stop was the "Orchid Hillock", which is famous for its orchid & other wild flower display in Spring. Of course the orchids had had it by this stage, but it was a lovely walk, & I was happy that I now know where it is. Another off-road excursion saw us driving through awesome scenery - a la the dramatic Kourtolatiko gorge near Plakias, for those who have been there. But more special, as no tourists know its whereabouts, & as I discovered last night, some locals hadn't heard of it. Whooaa! At the village at the end of this secret road are 2 beautiful churches, one very old, & in which Annie was allowed to perform an offering to the various Ikons. The second was a church belonging to an old Monastery. Later that evening we were enjoying another fab meal from Annie & Dave, when Grigori, the local shepherd joined us for an hilarious night, singing old Cretan songs. Some of you will remember Grigori bringing in his flock past Annie & Dave's house. Tuesday saw us once again heading out to "who knows where?", supplied with nuts, cherries & water. First stop was a very old church at the end of a rutted track. Great mountain biking areas around here by the way folks.

The frescoes in the church were in a pretty bad state, but I did manage to get a good pic of one of them. We scrambled around the rocks in the area & discovered walls of an ancient village. Very cool, & once again completely unknown to tourists. We snacked beside

another old Venetian Bridge, before heading further into the beautiful Amari Valley. After more derelict monasteries - got some great pics - & gorgeous scenery we ate a great lunch at Amari among the swallows. We called in Gerakari for coffee & to buy some cherries 4euros a kilo. Remember those cherries guys?

Back home in Orne & we were off to Maria & Grigori's for a chaotic evening of raki drinking & communicating in the local Cretan dialect. Must have done alright going by their reaction. Hoping for a quiet day to repack for my trip to Chania tomorrow. Tonight we're going to Agia Galini so Dave can watch the final- on TV- of the European Football Champions League between Milan & Liverpool. Will be a late night & an emotional one too.